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@Madrox If a am not allowed to post a thread about a costume knowing it won't get a CRL possibly ever, I will move my post to another thread. I intentionally never mentioned any hope for CRL for this character as I've read up already on the detachments opinion on creating one for this character. There isn't enough live action reference to even suggest it, so the hardline rule for not using action figures makes sense. Though to save this thread, if you prefer I can put a Disclaimer at the top of the status of a CRL for this type of character as to not mislead any future readers. As far as this character existing, many of the painters/modelers that worked on Ahsoka have come out when the toy was announced to celebrate their work on those characters, I asked in DM's specifically if both characters existed as in they build real life armor for stunt actors, the CG one and the Hot Toys one. I was told that one of the painters worked on 6 armor sets, and another did 1 set the one that got CG treatment but it did exist one set. As for the unicorn horn helmet, even after painters confirming that the Hot Toys style armor was on set, you can see a shot with a Mandalorian slashed down having a horn in line with the T-Visor. Also with the CG Mandalorian, here is proof that his armor was also on set, starting on this frame you can see a sequence of him getting slashed down and it's clearly a real suit. https://www.cap-that.com/starwars/ahsoka/105/index.php?image=ahsoka1x05_1891.jpg Even though it's not the same character as the Hot Toy, many of the armor pieces match up with what we see on the figure, except the chest piece. The HotToy has seperate chest pieces like BoBF and Axe Woves S3 but in the shots you can see it's one fused chestplate. I DM'd the painter and they confirmed it is an inaccuracy in the HotToy.

I was wondering about that as well since I was indeed having trouble trying to figure out how I'd support the hat. That might be the best option for me.

Another option would be a 3D printed hard shell type mask. That would be completely acceptable and may prove to be more beneficial structurally in order to better support the large hat. 3D printing may also be more accessible to people as well.

@TheSweatshop Legion policy does not allow for CRLs based solely on action figures, therefor we will not be creating a CRL for this action figure. I actually discussed this exact figure in my most recent DL blog found here: Any CRLs we make for live action Mando Super Commandos (believe me, I would LOVE to get these guys/gals into the Legion) will be based primarily on references from the Ahsoka show. Figures CAN be used a supplemental reference but CANNOT be the main reference. For this figure specifically, the costume does not line up with any of the known Super Commandos seen in the show. The helmet spike configuration with the "unicorn" spike is something that seems to be a creative decision made by Hot Toys because we just don't see any Mandos like that in the Ahsoka show. For 501st inclusion, these costumes will need to adhere more to the show references and less to the figurine.

I've been lurking on forums interested in doing a Live-Action version of the Obi-Wan armor from The Clone Wars cartoon and since the flashback in the Ahsoka episode, I've been inspired. I've been staring long enough now and I believe I have enough information to start a thread. If any new information comes out of I've gotten something wrong, please let me know. Here is the character specifically since after speaking with some of the painters on the show, the main shot from the show is a CG model, though that armor does make an appearance in later frames. several different armor sets were built and since you can't see them well in the flashback. The Hot Toys figure is my starting point. Helmet and Jetpack are noted as "newly developed", this seems important as many other pieces are direct copies from previous armor pieces. Helmet: Symmetrical ears and no forehead triangles, no Borden connector, and of course the addition of horns. Helmet 3D Files VEK3D MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Chest: BoBF Boba Fett / Axe Woves S3 style Chest 3D Files ChamanleonFX MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Galactic Armory Back: Looks like it could be a BoBF Boba Fett / Axe Woves S3 style but the sides are clipped a bit. Back 3D Files BucksArmory MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Galactic Armory Jetpack: Frankenstein jetpack Axe Woves S1 / Death Watch body, BoBF features, new thrusters Back 3D Files PewPewCrafts Shoulders: Looks like a new sculpt Shoulder 3D Files MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Gauntlets: Din Djarin(Pre Beskar) / Axe Woves S2 / Death Watch Gauntlet 3D Files Great Ape Studio ChamanleonFX BucksArmory PewPewCrafts Hand Plates: BoBF / Axe Woves S3 Hand Plate 3D Files ChamanleonFX MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Codpiece: Jango Fett Style, possibly a new sculpt Codpiece 3D Files MinuteFett MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Thigh Armor: Looks like a new sculpt Thigh Armor 3D Files MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts Knee Armor: BoBF / Axe Woves S3 Knee Armor 3D Files ChamanleonFX MysteryMakers Galactic Armory PewPewCrafts Shin Armor: Looks like a new sculpt Shin Armor 3D Files MysteryMakers PewPewCrafts

It looks good from your photos but like you said, lighting can have an impact. It's really going to depend on how the whole belt and bandolier turn out. Things will need to be placed with correct spacing, etc.

Since I'm going to be reprinting the armor anyway, I'm thinking about aiming for infamous level accuracy. I know that means it needs to be exactly how the outfit appears on screen. Is this possible to achieve if I dye my top layer the same way as these samples (or if I dye it slightly more/less dark) or is the leather I bought too inaccurate for that and I'd have to buy new leather? I haven't decided if I will actually go down this route yet, but I want to understand all the requirements before I decide. The CRL is somewhat vague in a lot of areas.

I think you're good there.

Ok, I followed your advice and bought 70% isopropyl and a tupperware for dip dyeing. I put 16 FL OZ isopropyl and a capful of dye in the container and dyed a series of test pieces to see if the duration had any affect on the color. I found that the length of time I left them in the bath had literally zero affect on the color. The piece that I just dunked and pulled out looks identical to the one that I left in for 5 minutes. It seems that the ratio of dye to isopropyl is all that matters for intensity of color. That being said, it did come out slightly lighter than the piece that I had brushed one layer of dye onto. @andyman97 Is there a color swatch, hex color code, or better yet a real-life paint sample card I can refer to so that I know exactly what color I need to be aiming for? I've looked at some other people's photos but because everyone's lighting is different they sometimes look like different shades and I can't tell what the intended goal should be.

Other than the hands which are just halloween props and easy to get.. Everything is on order. Now the wait begins.

Word. I'll buy a big tupperware from the store in a bit and try that out.

Isopropyl alcohol, it won't be too dark once it's been diluted.

Oh that sounds like a good idea. Should the dye be diluted with something in the pan? A capful seems like not a lot of dye, so I'm guessing it would need something else to give it volume and allow greater control over the dye level? Also if this dye is too dark I can buy a lighter brown dye.

Here's my advice, take about a capful of dye and put it into a large pan, dilute with isopropyl aclohol, and dip the pieces rather than coating them with undiluted dye. You'll get better consistency and you can control how dark it goes. I think you're ok with what you have but it's on the darker side.

Ok, I tested dyeing the leather with my Angelus dark brown leather dye and it seems like it came out fine. I was worried it might damage the leather or something because I'm new to working with it, but I don't think anything bad happened. The pull-up is far less noticible when dyed, which seems like a good thing based on your notes. This is the dye and sealer that I used Here are the results of the dye tests. I left one piece undyed as a control for reference, then I put 1 layer of dye on the skinny piece and 2 layers on the wide piece. I feel like the colors look a little bit different on camera. In person, the 2 coats almost looks closer to black than brown in my opinion. Here's all of them side-by-side for comparison. I also put them next to the base layer of the belt so you can see how it compares to the vegtan which was also dyed with 2 layers of the same dark brown dye. @andyman97 Do either of the dyed pieces look like they'd be acceptable for the belt/bandolier? Also are any of these colors acceptable for the left/right leg or the boots? Sorry to bombard you with questions, I just want to make sure I'm following the requirements and if I need to buy any other new materials I want to plan for that as soon as possible.

Thank you sm, I hadn't heard of Mind Magic Studios but his works looks promising. Thanks for the help!

New Cad Bane mask finished. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzI6HrrayJpiInZjPzq3pYuquW5BxMSz/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks for the assistance, I really do appreciate your help. You're right, I should have done more research into that. That's on me. I'm looking into the better 3D files now, and I'll perform some dye tests on the leather when I get home from work later today. I'll put pictures here once I'm done. Thanks for your help Andy!

I don't really know of any masks available for Embo. The only Embo in the Legion is our model and hers was a custom "one-off" made specifically to fit her head. You might want to reach out to some known creature mask makers like Chris Stephens, Mind Magic Studios, etc

I understand, really sorry I missed that in the first post but we have plenty of build threads and pre-approval threads all over the forum where it's consistently mentioned that Galactic Armory files are lacking in accuracy. There is also a PINNED vendor list thread that specifically lists the two more accurate vendors along with their sites. I've never tried to recolor or darken pull up leather so it would be for you to test. You can use leather dyes or leather paints - Angelus makes good stuff. If that doesn't work, the pull up leather is used for the left shin pleats and for the boots if you were considering making the covers yourself. I'm betting the paint or dye would get you where you need to be, though.

Ouch, that sucks. Well, thanks for telling me. I'm surprised no one told me that earlier, I mentioned it in my first post. Oh well. I can try to get the files from chamanleonfx and start over. I'll also try to test out dyeing the leather I bought to see if I can make it darker without damaging it. If dyeing it doesn't work though, are there any other methods I should use to darken it if it's too light to be accepted? If I can't darken the leather I bought to make it work and all the armor files I made are too inaccurate then I might just give up on applying.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but sadly, the Galactic Armory files are too inaccurate for approval. I've done a lot of comparison and they are just too far off in details. I'd strongly urge you to either pick up files from Great Ape at www.greatapestudio.com or www.cgtrader.com/chamanleonfx Either of these helmet/armor files are accurate enough in detail for approval if they're scaled and finished correctly.

My armor and helmet files are from GalacticArmory on Etsy, found here. They include a smooth back plate and one with the attachment pegs for the jetpack. If I can’t use that to attach the jetpack, I'm not sure how I would attach it to the flight suit.

You just need to make sure the waist band of the pants is not visible when everything is worn. Which armor and helmet files are you using? For the book of Boba Fett CRL, the jetpack isn't worn on the back plate, it's one or the other and the back plate doesn't have attachments. Very cool idea on the leather mockup with Eva! The pull up leather may not be the best choice for these parts though, it may need to be darkened a touch. For the thread, an ivory color would be most accurate and I would recommend the most heavy duty thread your machine can handle. Once it's sewn you can use paint to weather the stitches.

Love it when I tell myself I'm gonna post more often and then immediately proceed to not do that. I've made a lot of progress since my last post, but it's a bit of a "two steps forward, one step back" type situation. I decided to redo the flight suit. I wasn't a huge fan of the patterns I got, and by the time I finished sewing it, it was too tight around the chest and in the butt. I also didn't leave enough seam allowance to widen those areas, so it's not really fixable. However, I'm choosing to see this as an opportunity to make a better, more accurate, and more comfortable flight suit. With the previous flight suit, I used a solid brown fabric that I double-layered with spray adhesive to make it thicker. This time, I bought these patterns by JustDesignsNorway, and I'm going to make the suit using a nice canvas fabric that I used previously for a different costume. It'll again be a two part suit with a shirt and pants, but this time I'll also be including the lighter brown cummerbund as part of the shirt. I'll be dyeing all the fabric myself, so I'll be sure to refer to the color scheme on the CRL when I do that. The separation of the shirt and pants should be completely covered by the belt and all the armor pieces around the waist. Will that be enough to satisfy the requirement that it look like one piece, or do I need to tuck in the shirt, add straps/velcro, etc. as well? I haven't started working on the new flight suit yet, so I'll take pictures and post again once I'm at that stage. In the meantime, I've been working on the actual armor. I bought a new 3D printer and printed just about everything in PETG. I've spent the last few weeks sanding, spraying filler primer, applying spot putty, and repeating. I'm pretty happy with where it's at so far, but there's a few spots I wanted to post to double check if they seem acceptable or if they need more work. There's a seam down the center of the jetpack that I've filled pretty well, but from some angles you can sort of see it. It's a bit visible in this photo in the middle of the center surface. Similar deal with the chest piece. It's split into thirds that were glued together. The seam on the right side is pretty much invisible at this point, but at some angles you can kinda see the left one. I couldn't really find a good angle to capture this, but if it sounds like an issue let me know and I'll put more work into it. On the back piece, I didn't really put any effort into smoothing the attachment pieces that hold the jetpack up because I figured I'd either be wearing the jetpack or the cape would be down, so they're never going to be seen anyway. If this is an issue though, I can make it nice and smooth. On the back of my helmet there's this seam on the left side that kinda bugs me. It's smoothed out, but there's still a bit of a lip so you can kinda tell there was a seam there. I'm probably going to put a bunch of bondo and try to fix this either way, but I'd still like to know if this is an issue or not. I've still got to print a few detail pieces for the jetpack and the gauntlets using my resin printer, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I also decided to buy these gauntlet models from chameleonfx because the ones I got from GalacticArmory don't have any real attachment method, they're just split into two halves with little tabs. These ones have inserts for magnets to hold the two halves together and an option for hinges + magnets if desired. I've also been working on the belt/bandolier which has been very intimidating since I've never worked with leather and it's a *very* expensive material... Which is why I made a practice belt first using EVA foam! This idea came at the recommendation of the guys working at my local Tandy Leather, and I'm glad I did it. Working with EVA foam first allowed me to get a solid grasp on the process so that I understood what materials I needed and what methods to use. I watched Debora Di Meo's tutorials on YouTube while also referring to the CRL diagrams and requirements for placement/layout. I'm making my belt/bandolier with a thin (~1-2mm) under-layer of vegtan leather dyed dark brown and a thicker (~2-3mm) top layer of kodiak leather. I really like the pull-up on this stuff, it makes it really easy to make it look worn/weathered, or at the very least lived-in. Also, the CRL says I'm supposed to use brown or dirty-white thread for the stitches. This is the thread I was thinking of using. Is this a good color, or should I use a different one? I like the contrast of this kind of off-white better than just brown personally, but if it's not accurate enough I'll use a different one. Sorry for the long ass post, I really should've kept up with this as i went. I'll try to do better about that moving forward, but obviously that didn't work out so great last time I said that so no promises. Any feedback is highly appreciated. Thanks for reading, let me know your thoughts!